One More Cup of Coffee for the Road

Something strange happens when I'm in a confined space for too long. It's not that I have anything against 14 square meters facing to the north. I've made it as pleasant as I can and it's a place I can generally enjoy being in. However, I can't think straight when I'm in the same place for too long.

The problem with 4 medium-sized islands and 130 million inhabitants is that there isn't all that much space to go to. Sure, there is a concreted-up river not too far from my house that I enjoy going to. A small park going the other way. But generally, neither is a space where one can sit with a book and get down to some serious Rodin-esque thinking action.

This is where Caffe la Fresco fits in. Number 11 in the annual Japan barista championships, it sits innocuously past a hairdresser's and an Indian Restaurant. It's also one of two places within walking distance where I can sit outside and have a coffee.

Another favourite is Nelken. Crimson velvet high-backed chairs, years of cigarette smoke left on the ceiling, still-life paintings, decorations formed by dried up roses. Classical music only. No laptops permitted.

A less creepy alternative is Violon, where pretty much everything has been hand-made or hand-picked by the owner, including the 100% analogue stereo system with valve amplifier and turntable. Superb acoustics, superb stereo, vinyl in immaculate shape. It's perfect for the morbid introspection, as silence seems to be an unspoken rule.

明けましておめでとうございます

It's difficult to walk, if you've had 3 plates of pasta, 3 pizzas, a bowl of chips and two salads. Such are the dangers of 1500 yen all-you-can eat extravaganzas. The result is watching the New Year roll in at Ueno Station; only a handful of other people in "I-wish-I-was-somewhere-else" predicaments for company. At least the music changes to a pleasant Japanese classical music pastiche featuring a koto.

We decide to walk off some calories by footing it to Asakusa. The streets are completely deserted until we stumble upon a shrine I hadn't visited for 4 years.

Desipte a bursting stomach, the ame-zake served at the shrine slides in without a hitch. However, the queue for New Year's prayers is a little long and I am anxious to see the source of a tolling bell.

The queue to ring the bell is also long. 20 minutes. There's another one in the neighbourhood and another queue.

Finally, we make it to the main temple in Asakusa and the biggest queue I've ever seen. We go home.

The following day we hop on the train to Tokyo station and go to see the Emperor. Countless riot busses. A bag check. A body check. Ordinary police. Police with sunglasses. Police in black suits and sunglasses with ear-pieces. I can't help being excited by finally crossing the moat and going into the palace.

The buildings within are a little disappointing. 1970s modern Japanesque architecture. The crowd is also of a surprisingly modest size; mostly old people and a disproportionate number of foreign tourists. At exactly 14:20 the Imperial family emerges and the flag-waving starts at shouted commands of several officials stationed within the crowd. It's actually pretty creepy. One guy waves a WWII imperial army flag. Nobody bothers him.

The Emperor is a kindly looking old man. He wishes happiness for the citizenry, prays for world peace, waves to everyone and the whole ritual is over within minutes.

The crowd slowly descends down the Imperial driveway in a very orderly manner. Several officials walk with large placards in English which read: "Please walk slowly and carefully." I guess that it's only the troublesome foreigners who need reminders on how to walk... In any case the entire crowd makes an amicable exit to enjoy the blue skies outside.